PUNPUN
AN ANCIENT RIVER AND AN OLD, HOLY TOWN
TRAVEL MADE EASY FOR ALL THE HINDUS
Punpun
is a small town ten km. south of Patna, capital of Bihar, India. The
town is located on the right bank of river Punpun. This place is world
famous as the first ‘pindadan’ shall be done here and the second
pindadan shall be performed at Gaya, Bihar (as told to me by the
Pandas). Pindadan is a Hindu religious ceremony performed to liberate
the soul of the ancestors from the cycle of the Universal bondage and
for a peaceful journey to the heaven. The story goes that during ancient
time seven great sages namely, Sanak, Sunandan, Sanatan, Kapil, Aasuri,
Bodu and Panchsikh performed rigorous penance for development of the
Universe as advised by Brahma, The Creator. Brahma satisfied with their
tremendous effort appeared before them and all the sages touched the
feet of Brahma. After that they desired to wash the feet of Brahma and
drink the holy water. But as there was no water available nearby so
they collected their sweat in a Kamandalu. Brahma extremely pleased
asked them not to waste their sweat and keep the Kamandalu aside.
Luckily the Kamandalu fell down. Brahmaji picked it up and kept it
straight. But again it fell down and again Brahmaji picked it up. And
when the Kamandalu fell down for the third time of its own; Brahamaji
uttered spontaneously ‘PUNA: PUNA:’. The moment these words were
pronounced, a river emerged from the Kamandalu and started flowing
towards the earth. All the sages worshipped the ‘Puna:Puna:’ river. And
then Brahmaji blessed that, “Whoever will perform the pindadan ceremony
on the bank of this river here at Punpun will always remain blessed and
their ancestors will be free from all worldly bondages and will have a
place in Heaven.” Although I am in doubt but still I think the story is a
good one.
HOW I REACHED?
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Road to Punpun
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THE RIVER
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I
wanted to enjoy the downstream journey of river Punpun. So from Patna
Railway Station, I followed NH 30 and then at Bari Pahari More (7 Km)
turned right towards Beriya (10 km). Crossed Sampatchowk Bazar (12 km)
and then at Gourichowk (19 km) turned right again to follow the lean
potholed street till NH 83 (Patna-Gaya route) at Punpun Ghat More (29
km). During the last ten km. stretch of the journey, river Punpun gave
me constant company and this segment was really refreshing. A slim
serpentine river in winter, mile after mile lush lavish mustard green
fields, farmers in dhotis threshing the paddy yield on makeshift wooden
cots, occasional boats collecting the river sand, rows of palm trees as
far as mind can see, babul acacia tree canopying the narrow uneven pitch
road, giggling village girls going to school in groups, careless
herdsman with mindless goats (I almost slipped off the road for one such
herd), sudden non-electrified human settlements and the morning fog
with occasional drizzle kissing my windscreen were tempting enough to
open the cork but anyway I resisted. Pindadan and picnic on the same
location were very much possible but I kept both for the future.
THE TOWN AND THE PEOPLE
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THE FAITH
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In
Magadh Country there were four religious places namely Gaya, Rajgriha,
Devkund and Punpun. Mention of Punpun is also found in Garud Puran.
After reaching the town I crossed one small road bridge and then turned
right and went down to reach the bathing ghat where the pindadan
ceremony is performed. A small pandal was erected for the fair that
happens twice in a year for about one month, once just before Dussehra
and again before Makar Sankranti in January. I preferred a walk down
the locality. It is a normal Indian town with small markets, dingy
colorful lanes, a railway station and a railway halt of same name, a
British made railway bridge primarily used by local pedestrians, two-
three story pucca colourful buildings with few khapra-kuchcha ones,
primary- high schools, a small not so well maintained Marwari dharamsala
near the Punpun Halt, tractors, buffaloes, mustard fields, dense rows
of palm trees, mango orchards and simple looking people. Basically the
town, not so clean is a rural setting moving towards urban culture. But
the land prices are zooming towards sky, courtesy ‘Brand Bihar.’
Bachchu Prasad Singh who owns a PDS shop offered me a cup of tea of
pure buffalo milk and informed that many of the residents own two or
three shops at Patna but have houses here: ‘for fresh air.’ But the
town has no motel or hotel for the visitors and the nearby city Patna is
only ten km away. So a night stay at Punpun may better not to be
considered. Patna being the capital city will be the only option.
THE VISITORS AND THE PANDAS
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THE TOWN
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While
travelling from Gaya to Rajgir, Gautam Buddha stayed here for few days.
Even today lakhs of Buddhists visit this place. Besides family members
of Nepal kings like Homevir Vikramsah, Leela Shamsher, Bhim Samsher and
Vasundhar Veer Vikram Sah, numerous other Nepalese visit this holy
place every year. People from Srilanka, Burma, Bangladesh and Tibet are
regular here. While travelling to Baikhunthapur, Raja Man Singh stayed
here and inspired for the construction of Siv temple at the ghat.
Visitors from Bihar, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh do also come here for
pindadan.Binoba Vhabe of Bhudan fame also spent some time here. When I
arrived at the Punpun ghat around fifty Nepalese were performing the
last rituals with the help of the local pandas. The pandas or priests
were very lively lot and always eager to help the visitors. Two of them
Rajesh Kr. Mishra (Mob: 09308630510) and Madhusudan Kr. Singh (Mob:
09199019795) were very friendly and accompanied me for another round of
Punpun tour when I covered the Puneswarnath Prachin Siv Mandir, Arya
Samaz Mandir, High School and the Maszid Bazar. And not to forget
Bachchu Prasad Singh (Mob: 09430935089).
A GOOD PICNIC SPOT
Towards
Gaya, just left of the beginning of Road Bridge on NH 83, opposite to
the Punpun Ghat (embankment) is a verdant orchard of uncountable small
and big Palm, Mango, Bel and Date trees. The river Punpun, said to be
older than river Ganga and sometimes referred as ‘Adi Ganga Puna:Puna:’
has taken a left turn here; the water receded leaving the bank for wild
growth to decorate it with greens. The orchard floor, carpeted with soft
green grasses allowing a free fall for local boys playing gully cricket
and few splendour bikers were testing their riding skills among the
palm rows dexterously managing the machines. Punpun otherwise also are
blessed with the village serenity and greenery that are common in this
plain. A perfect, may not be great picnic spot for stressed Patna. I
also enquired the crime situation in this area from Bachchu and the
reply was: Peaceful very peaceful. He also mentioned smilingly that, “We
are lively, peaceful and religious people.”
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THE FIELD
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AND THE PANDAS
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Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli Mahuli